Adventure in the Vikos Gorge: A Breathtaking Hike and an Unforgettable Encounter
The Vikos Gorge had been high on our travel bucket list for a while. In the charming village of Monodendri, we parked our camper at a relatively high altitude to prepare for a stunning 7-kilometer hike the next day. We’d already heard from several hikers that the trail was quite manageable and offered spectacular views.
The next morning, we were ready and excited. Our backpacks were packed. Diede was in the carrier, and Jinte was ready to hike, climb and scramble — completely in her element. Halfway through our hike, however, the mood quickly changed.
A Frightening Encounter on the Trail
While descending a less-traveled path, we heard distant bells — likely from a herd of sheep or goats. Moments later, aggressive barking followed, and suddenly, four enormous Greek shepherd dogs appeared behind us. These were no border collies — more like a cross between a lion and a wolf. Google them, and you’ll understand.
Our dog, Goos, was off-leash, but Johan quickly secured him. With Diede on his back and Goos pressed protectively by his side, Johan stood slightly apart from Mirre and Jinte. At first, the dogs didn’t seem to notice Goos and instead zeroed in on Mirre and Jinte, growing and barking menacingly. It was absolutely terrifying.
I attempted to walk forward with Jinte, but that only provoked the lead dog, who came closer — close enough for us to literally count his teeth. Jinte screamed and cried; Mirre shouted at the dogs to go away. Eventually, they backed off. Just to be safe, we picked up a rock and a stick, which turned out to be a wise move.
As we regained our composure, the dogs returned. This time, they noticed Goos. Our sweet dog stood frozen, as if sensing the danger. Once again, the dogs targeted Mirre and Jinte. Mirre raised the rock with determination and shouted. It worked. As the dogs slowly retreated, she asked Johan if she should actually throw the rock — but it was clear that would only escalate things.
We took a few minutes to calm down, hearts pounding wildly. This turned into a teachable moment about stress responses and how each person handles fear differently. From that point on, we kept looking nervously over our shoulders for the rest of the hike.
A View That Made It All Worthwhile
Eventually, we reached our destination — and it was absolutely breathtaking. Jinte’s jaw dropped at the incredible view. Diede, sleeping soundly, missed it but would hopefully enjoy the memories through our stories and photos.
We savored our lunch by the cliffside with a view that’s hard to describe — picturesque and unbelievably serene. For the return journey, we played it safe and took the paved road halfway back. None of us wanted another encounter with those guard dogs. Once we felt safe, we switched back to the hiking trail. To our surprise, we even found the tiny bouquet we had made earlier, still resting in the same puddle where we had left it.
Winding Down and Reflecting
Back at the village, we collapsed on a terrace for well-deserved refreshments. The girls enjoyed ice cream while we relaxed. Mirre whipped up a quick pasta dinner, and the girls applied makeup, then played with some German kids from the campsite. Soon, it was bedtime. Johan put the girls to bed while Mirre went for a quiet walk and called her sister-in-law. That night, the girls slept fast but tossed and turned — clearly dreaming about the day’s adventures.
Mother’s Day in Monodendri
The next morning was Mother’s Day. The girls showered Mirre with hugs, a wooden honey dipper, and a charming bracelet. A surprise breakfast was waiting, filled with love and thoughtfulness.
We strolled toward the village monastery, enjoying another mesmerizing view. Inside the chapel, we lit a candle to honor the miscarriages we’ve experienced. A warm family hug followed, reminding us of how truly blessed we are with our two beautiful daughters.
Change of Plans: Off to the River
Our plan was to head toward Kastoria, but Diede wasn’t feeling well. She complained of tummy aches and had even vomited suddenly a few days prior. Concerned, we decided to change plans and stay in the valley.
The area featured a stunning river known for rafting — an exciting sight to watch. The kids played while we took the chance to work and exercise. Not a bad way to spend an afternoon, all things considered. What a family adventure this was!
